"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." (Twain)

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Ulaangom to Olgii

Always a proud moment when you reach the top.
 The road from ULG to Olgii was described by a certain travel book as "pleasant."  Pleasant sounds like something my mother would enjoy (no offense mom), however I do not think she would define climbing ridiculously steep passes on rocky roads as pleasant.  Not that I did not enjoy my final leg in Mongolia, but I would chose words such as challenging, rugged, and difficult.  However it was extremely rewarding in the end.   By the time I was approaching Olgii I decided that I was done with wandering around Mongolia on a bicycle not ever knowing where I am, riding on terrible roads, and climbing steep passes over loose rocks and sand.  The last climb before Olgii generously provided me with all these obstacles with the addition of a headwind.  When I finally reached the top and could view Olgii from above and patted myself on the back for basically surviving the trans Mongolian cycle route.   I still have 100km left to cycle to enter Russia so still a bit more surviving to do, but hopefully I can handle whatever comes my way without loosing my cool on the way to big, scary, cold Russia!!  As for Russia, I have absolutely no idea what to to expect, should be fun!


Uureg Nuur (Lake)



Approaching Uureg Nuur


One of the toughest climbs of the journey.

Five hours later I am at the top!!

Achit Nuur


Next on cribs....

The Khovd River leading to Olgii

Olgii!!!!!!!!!

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Bilgee and her Father

 I met Bilgee on the streets of Nomrog while she was outside painting her sister's fence and I was out strolling.  She spoke really good English after working three years with an international crowd in a noodle factory in Korea to pay for her daughter's education.  She showed me around her hometown and we had tea with her father.  Her father kept asking "What is she doing out there all alone?"  Later that evening we ate marmot for dinner for those that are wondering it tastes like rabbit. After marmot it was time for homemade vodka and sweets. Her father was kind enough to share his favorite candy with me. As I was leaving they gave me a bottle of vodka and lots of sweets. The vodka was to give me strength, help me sleep, and keep me warm. Who knew vodka could have so many uses! I was walking out the door when her father called be back and kissed me on the cheek 3 times for good luck. Apparently three is a very lucky number in Mongolia!!

Moron to Ulaangom

Flying solo again
Arrgh!!!
I set out from Moron on my own once again and really started going west.  It felt good to be my own boss lady again even though it was nice cycling with company for awhile.  Once I left Moron things were becoming more desolate if that's even possible in Mongolia and the navigating became a bit more challenging.  There were definitely times when I really did not know if I was on the right track or not. I usually was able to determine if I was on one of two roads heading to different towns so that only makes me unsure of my location not lost, because I would never get lost.  It just unfortunate when I realized I chose the wrong and in order to get back where I think I should involves pushing your bike through a sandy desert that is full of sand spurs.  There's no worse feeling then looking down and see your tires covered in spurs and as you remove them you hear "ssssss" as air comes out of your tire.  So yeah no big deal I will just replace the inner tube and everything bike wise will be fine ha. Then you begin to pump up your new inner tube and it rips at the valve, I blamed China at this point.  Luckily I had one more spare inner tube and it has so far done the job.  So after a long break of mending tires and no sign of any human movement I continued wandering and eventually found what I hoped was the right track.  I judged the rightness by telling myself this just feels like the right the way.  Its funny when you are really unsure of where you are and just want some confirmation from a local horses, cows, and sheep begin to look human off in the distance.   Eventually I came across a ger and I road out to greet the people and attempt to find out if my feeling was right.  As I rode up to the ger the small children came out to greet me then immediately started crying.  I peeked inside and the father was inside watching horse racing on his satellite TV and he promptly invited me to join him for some TV and tea in the middle of nowhere.  After tea we got down to business of giving me directions in Mongolian with no gestures or map drawing in the sand.  He got out his binoculars and tried to show me the road the distance, I never actually saw it just trusted that this man did not want to see perish away slowly in the desert.  It turns out his directions or what I understood of them were spot on and I eventually ended up where I wanted to end up.
I let him ride my bike after schooling him in horse.
Since I have been riding west the invites into people's homes have been increasing and the kindness of people has shown through. I try to repay when I can. For instance at one stop the kid needed help repairing his basketball. He had a patch but no rubber cement, so I helped him out then we played a few friendly games of horse using a tire rim attached to the house. I am pretty sure it was not up to regulation standards, but afterwards I gave him a quick lesson on how to dribble between his legs. I am sure his parents are grateful because the rugged terrain of his court makes dribbling quite the challenge so I am sure he will spend hours trying to master it.
Only a short time left in Mongolia before entering big, scary Russia where winter is fast approaching as everyone keeps reminding me.  But as winter nears I have the safety of my mother's words:  "Jenna you do not have to sleep in the snow, I can pay for a hotel for you is you cannot afford it." Thanks mom, I will be sure to check into five star accommodation in Moscow

Nice highlights!


Next time I will be sure to secure my map properly so i do not have to ride back 13km and climb the same pass twice.

Yeah camels!




I will just sit here and eat PB & Js until someone comes along and tells me which road I am actually on.






Friday, September 2, 2011

Lake Khuvsgul Photos

After taking the wrong road and pushing our bikes halfway up the mountain we ended up here.  A detour that was well worth it!

A great rest spot.

After over 20 river and stream crossings I had enough for the day.
Awesome birds around the lake.

That's the "road" on the other side.

Great path through the forest.

We camped just below here for almost a week, it was just that nice!


Another great path through the trees.

After pushing and crashing (only twice) through knee deep mud and giant rocks we made it to the top of the pass.  In Mongolian tradition you walk around the davaa three times and make a wish. I wished for........

Look closely and you might see the road.

After giving my bike a go, I think he decided he preferred his horse.

The Darkhad Depression area near Tsaaganuur.